vlayman; THD; blog; TFP
vlayman; THD; blog; TFP
My Own United Nations (non-PC)
c. ’14 Vlayman
Little lotus flower awe yer lookin’ kinda sweet
I want you to come over here and sit right next to me
You got that deep black hair and them little tiny feet, I ask you
Little lotus flower will ya spend some time with me?
Hey there Bariqua, I ask you what do you say
See, I know you like to talk all night right in to the day
But doya think that you could whisper to me how ya wanna play
I want you, sweet Bariqua, tell me, what do ya say
I’m not goin’ above my station, no
I just wanna have my own United Nations, yo
Of experience, I wanna know ‘em all
Oh yeah, brown sugar baby, I hope that you will say maybe
Maybe you can understand the way it feels to be a man
To look at you and think I can keep you happy azza plan
Oh yeah, brown sugar baby, I believe I can
Hey there, First People lady, I hope you ain’t think I’m all that lazy
Tryna be the one for you I ain’t sure just what to do
I wanna make you come to love me, I’ll be your slave, You can come above me
Hey there, First People lady, don’t think I’m crazy
Vox: CAD M9-Eureka(pad)
Ld Gtr: Tele-Marshall-SB23L-EurekaCmp(pad)_E609-ISA1(pad
vlayman; THD; blog; TFP
Never used the Cloudlifter or FEThead, but I recently bought a Cathedral Pipes Durham, what I think is the same idear.
Even with a relatively hot pre-amp (Summit BA-221) that I actually haddda engage it’s pad on for a guitar amp – really clears up my ShinyBox 23L, what I already loved.
It seems to add some presence and clarity as tho’ to the pre, actually, without losing what I wanna use the ribbon for.
Does the same for vocals, and I used it onna mic’d bass amp, too.
I mean, it is fun to change out tubes on mic’s and amps and pre’s. I’ve coil-tapped and split and phase-reversed and changed out pickups and tone-caps, I’ve added better or replaced input jacks and pots and trannies and the odd resistor, etc.
I’ve certainly improved the functionality of stuff by, say, replacing tuners or bridges or switches or jacks or removing mesh from a windscreen or death-caps, or adding shielding or ground-wires or even paint, and I fix stuff and even make my own patch cords.
When I think about it tho’, and not too, too much disrespect, I just can’t understand the mod “scene” as a reason for joining it.
I mean, it’s one thing to have a thing and it ain’t quite the thing you want the thing for – so you mod it to make it that thing you want.
I get it.
I just have a problem at this point with the mod “scene” what seems to exists to get you to mod things just for the purpose of modding the things they sell things to mod them with. I mean, it even seems they encourage you to buy a thing that’s a not-so-good-thing to use their things to mod it into a better thing than it was, while all the while it ain’t quite the thing you want it to be and mod it toward.
I mean, I want my Tele to sound like a Tele, not a Strat, and certainly not a Paul, y’know? And that cheap Chinee thing? Use it, abuse it, sell it, purposefully lose it, but don’t try to make it something it ain’t never gonna be.
Like, if I want a “warmer” pre, I’ll change to a “warmer” pre, or the same re a mic, or amp or whatever. I’ll just change guitars.
Mebbe I just have a little too much money, what gives me choices?
But I work hard to be able to have choices, and if I have bad shite, I’ll get rid of it (sometimes) to get good shite, if I just don’t outright just buy more shite, keeping that “bad” shite for the very limited thing(s) the “good” shite can’t do, even if that is only because it’s being used elsewhere.
But mod it?
Especially just to say I mod’d it?
Unless I have a piece of bad shite, and nothing better to do, I’d rather just replace it.
Zoom R16 (before cabling) & M-Audio powered monitors & headphone amp (the paper is me explaining sound envelopes and why we need to dampen the kick; the book by the awesome Ainglish police procedural writer, Nick Oldham)
The warbler in the makeshift (scratch) vocal booth constructed of carpet pad on top of tires – the drums are to the right, the recorder behind the photographer
The mic’s I brought – some were even utilized!
Drum kit – the kick mic (Sennheiser E602) is all the way in about 6″ from the beater – the “vocal booth” is behind and to the right of the photographer, the recorder behind and to the left
Mic placement: 1&2 are AT4040 OH’s; 3 is EV RE320 splitting the floor toms; 4 is Sennheiser MD421II splitting the rack toms; 5 is Shure Beta58 on snare; 6 is the E602 in the kick; the other two tracks are scratch vocal and scratch (DI) guitar
My phat arse (no, that’s not a dick mic)
Posted at TOMB:
So I bid on the E-bog and got a ADK TC mic from ’07, from a music store seller in New Jersey.
Preliminary power-up and it works fine, I think.
But when I take off the body there’s rust on the side rails, rust on the tube holder, the tranny, and various screws. There’s also some fine powder-grey corrosion on some of the solder.
The body itself has water-marks where its edge fits into the headbasket – if the marks are to be believed the mic was mebbe laying sideways in about 1/2″ of water …
I emailed the seller for history, etc., and to ask permission to open it and check the capsule because there’s paint on the headbasket screws and/or corrosion which will make it obvious if I open it.
What risks do you forsee if I keep this?
Is there anything I can do to prevent future problems?
Also, while the “Turbo-Tube” power box seems 100%, there is rust on the welds of the shock-mount and the screws on the pop-screen.
The case seems fine and there’s no smell, as if the thing was caught inna flooded basement, mebbe, and then washed quickly but not quite completely dried, and they failed to take the mic body off or else missed completely cleaning it …
vlayman; THD; blog; TFP
I got a good price on it (US$310 shipped) but the seller just responded with some apparent anger, and offensive denial.
Based on that attitude, I’ll wait for response to my reply, and then probably demand a refund.
Then I’ll probably have to fight about who pays return shipping …
As requested by the seller, I sent some photo’s as evidence, and here are 2:
Note the rust on the side rails, the tube-holder and glass, the screws, and the powder-corrosion on the solder.
The white stuff is water residue especially visible along the edge where it fit inside the headbasket assembly; the inside of the cover is filthy.
If anyone is interested in the dialogue, I’m happy to post that, altho’ I expect I’ll again get flamed for being mean to the seller.
Further evidence that it’s not natural humidity corrosion, but from immersion:
The seller, tho’, is insistent, “Our qualified electronic technician went over this microphone, with all of its accessories, and everything tested perfectly.”
Glad it/he/she is not my “qualified electronic technician”!
After the initial push-back, the seller agreed to a full refund and paid return shipping. Good on him.
Of course, I call his shipper, UPS, and they want US$7 to pick it up, so I had to contact the seller again …
I appreciate his/its situation but for any sellers reading this, please consider why someone in my position is less than thrilled/satisfied:
1. I am not your QC guy to test your item, and I further resent your questioning my immediate report of your self-created problems as tho’ I’m scamming (Other buyers have scammed you? Consider: other sellers have tried to scam me, too – or been so oblivious/incompetent/unconcerned/stupid that they have made mistakes at my cost, like you);
2. It is extra work for me to take and upload photo’s to prove that your “experienced tech doosh” didn’t open your item and check for damage (glad he’s yours, I don’t need another assault charge);
2. Many of us, with larger items, have to arrange add’l transport after receipt; ex., I had to pay for two cabs to get the item from my office to the train, and back (I ain’t carryin’ that un-padded-handle case for a mile thru the city along with my other shite, in my suit and tie).
3. In this instance, since your shipper, UPS initially said I don’t exist, I had to return a long-distance call to you to confirm my Pay-Pal listed address (tho’ you already rec’d my money from that account);
4. I have over an hour involved just in emails/PM’s and posting pic’s to assuage your baseless suspicions that I am the bad guy (when it was you fucked up);
5. You have had the use of my US$300+ (in this case) for about 3 weeks, at a minimum (Who’s the scammer? How about some interest? Go borrow $300 atta check-cash place, see what they charge!);
6. You treat me like the bad guy by refusing to return my money until you receive the defective item you fucked-up in sending in the first place, and I have to wait patiently and trust you to do so (See no. 5, above).
Digital Reference DR-KX1 Kick/Bass Drum Microphone; it’s prob’ly not too good on kick, but it’s nice and small and sounds aiight on bass (here) – I’m thinkin’ for toms, tho’.
Sterling Audio SP50 and SP30: not sure why I bought these other than they were so cheap, but they are interesting in that the “LDC” and “SDC” styles have the same small diaphragm. The 50 is actually pretty solid feeling, but the 30 records a cuppla dB hotter. Not unusable mic’s, but nothin’ to make me wanna use ‘em, either (they are the response vox on this, 50 on the left, 30 on the right.)
ADK TC Mk9 TUBE Condenser Mic: I have the Sputnik (all vocals and guitars, here) and really like it but – is there something the matter with me? (other than the obvious, I mean) – I prefer the MXL V69ME with a nice RCA 6072 (stacked vox here). So I got Friday-night rich (see the latest DBT album for the reference) and bid on this and got it for 1/2 the street price of the Mk12. Shipped today, so I may report back if anyone’s interested …
vlayman; THD; blog; TFP